DARMA VALLEY-FOR THE BEGINNERS, WHO WISH TO PLUNGE THEMSELVES INTO THE UNKNOWN

It was principally to carry out the research work that I had set out for the Darma valley. Little did I know that the singular journey will result into a lasting bond; a bond so strong that it will culminate with a resolve to study the community throughout the landscape. Even today, when the memories of that first foray into the valley, the recount of which was highly praised in the pages of the magazine ‘Srishti’, rekindles a desire to set forth again. Obviously, for writing forth an account of that last journey, I started with looking into the last issue of Srishti, but then having undertaken, at least two more treks, I would rather start afresh. The journey into Darma valley, in right earnest starts from the little hamlet, just at the bifurcation (which leads to the adjoining Chaudas valley) called Sobla. More often than not one could avail the benefit of a ride up to this place, from the border township of Dharchula, even though a ‘Kaccha’ road from Sobla, would take one right up to the village Dar. But roads in this region seldom remains functional, as the area in and around the Sobla is known for frequent cloud bursts. Since, I prefer to walk, even where one could avail of transport, lest to the liking of my two students, we trudged ahead. When the only concern is to study the nature, then one should leave behind the comfort. To get attuned to the surrounding nature, the sooner one lets his or her body tune in, the better, I tell my students, who I do believe are listening to me!

After around a 5-6 kms trek we reach our destination for night halt, the village Dar. There are a number of lodges to rest in and feel comfortable about. Next morning we set forth for Sela. The route from Dar begins with a trudge along a very narrow and treacherous path, cut through the face of the rock, with just enough space to carry your rucksack in an upright position, and yes, you do pray along that no one arrives from the other end of the path. But one does come across not only the humans but the ponies, and then one just has to cling on, hard-pressed to the wall, to give way.  One seldom dares to look down, for the roaring river Dhauli makes a frightful appearance. After nearly a 5 kms walk through a dense cover of forest, principally of Ringal (Thamnocalamus strictus), one reaches the stop , the village Bungling, which offers refreshments, not just in the form of tea, but if you are lucky, the shop owner will not hesitate to offer one with cucumber along with the peppered salt. In these lands, such instances are a luxury. The trek ahead is one of the most easiest of routes, the path seldom rises into steep gradient, only to take you down, very near to the banks of the Dhauli river, ending at Urthing, where a vast expanse of plain grassland awaits the traveler. There are two makeshift hotels to offer you meals. With just another two odd kms to tread along, one should spend more time in this beautiful space, created only for leisure, I believe. The hotel owner advises us to make bare minimum noise, as and when we do come across the Ringal forest, situated immediately at the outer fringes of the Sela village, for the simple reason that a Bear had been sighted with two young cubs, very recently. Bear are known for their ferocious nature, they need least of incitement to attack. One could thus simply visualize what a mother bear out to protect her two cubs, could do! It is still 2 kms ahead, but our behaviour has shown a marked change. We will only laugh out at our new found bravery, late in the night, huddled within the blankets, and comfortably away, in the lodge at Sela. The actual village Sela is located at the opposite bank of the river, and the one which caters to the travelers as well as to the ITBP personnel, is just a conglomeration of few hotels.

For an avid natural lover, the rich floral diversity leaves you spell bound

One should not discern the beauty of Darma through what little one has come across till Sela, for the actual beauty unfolds only when one finally reach the outskirts of the village Nangling, a good 7 kms from Sela, wherein begins the sudden change in the vegetation cover-Tall Abies and Deodar taking over the deciduous and broad-leaved forest till so common.. It is also the village from where one truly confronts and appreciates the culture of the Darmis. Nangling, the name is due to folklore, wherein a local deity gets rid of the awful Nag (Cobra) by feeding the same with red hot stones. And thus as per the legend, no one has since then confronted a snake from this region onward. Well one needs o appreciate the legend and the culture of the locals, even when one in possession of basic of biology will tell that snakes being a cold blooded animal, have its own limited habitats, governed by the temperature. However, the locals take pride in showing how extensive the legendary Nag was, which cress crosses the surrounding cliffs; with the form of the snake with head in the village and tail portion could be traced in the village Kuti! The next village enroute remains simply the most beautiful village in the whole of Darma valley, not just for its size, its grandeur, but primarily of the rich vegetation cover, extensive agricultural fields, as well as for the size of population. Infact, one needs o take note of that Darma valley is a bustling valley. In invariably all the villages, active agricultural practices by a relatively significant population size (which though is declining over a period) could easily be noticed. Compare the same with the scenario prevalent in Johaar or even Vyas, and the differences becomes all the more vivid. The reason could also be born out of the fact that this valley was never in the forefront of trade with Tibet, and hence were least affected with the closure of trade ties with the later. And hence the lifestyle remained as such- growing Fagopyrum, the buck wheat, which all together lends a majestic colour to the village. This singular crop is all together absent in Johaar, and nearly so, in Vyas too.

 

While the skies don’t lend you the rare sights of the mountain peaks, but then who cares when one is walking through the sublime, pure. Something..undescribable. Heavenly? No. Not the right word!

One comes across the locals drying out the collected truffles, mushroom in the sun. One of the eager onlookers would tell me that the collection of the mushrooms in a single season amounts to a figure, far exceeding 5 quintals, and that too from a single sacred forest, dominated by Abies, Deodar and Rhododendrons. This apart, the forest is rich in highly remunerative Morels (Morchella esculenta). Locals do collect it for their own consumption, little conscious of the actual price of the same in metropolis, where a kg of morels costs over 6000 rupees currently! It is believed that this sole resource available to these people could well provide them opportunity to raise their economic profile. But then the government teats the collection as illegal, even when it can not or rather is unable enforce its rulings! At this juncture one need to tell the readers that trek through Darma is one of the easiest of treks, with complete absence of abrupt climbs or steep gradients. One thus little realizes the ascent one has accomplished because the paths seldom lend that feeling to the traveler.  Infact, the locals would tell that it is common for the resident of the remotest village Sipu to cover the distance of around 46 odd kms up to the village Dar, all in a single day, and then to Dharchula, if he catches up a transport!

The Son-Dugtu and the adjoining village Dantu remains the centre of all the activities in Darma valley. It is also the site from where the majestic Panchachuli peaks are so magnificently visible. One should leave one’s belongings to one of the shops in the village Dugtu, and then climb the steady path that leads through a thicket of Birches and finally to Phaatab, an alpine meadow, from where one can actually experience the avalanches breaking loose from the Panchachuli peaks. The route adjoining the gad coming from the Panchachuli glacier, also happens to be the most common trek for the mountain climbers, who till date have not succeeded in scaling the Panchachuli Peak II. The traveler is advised to spend more time at this place, as the peaks leaves you spell bound due to its frequent change of hues. With the last of the sun rays, it is time to retrace one’s steps and move on to the adjoining village, Dantu, where one could take rest for the day in the Panchayat Ghar. Next morning after paying obedience and tributes to the Daanvir Shokyani, on the outer phalanges of the villages, one traverses through one of the best preserved forests of Deodar and Abies. The path leads to the village Dhakar, which oddly is the only village, which appears to be completely desolate. Midway though one could cross over the Dhauli River to get across the once prime site of the trade and thus accompanied glory, the village Goe. If one wants to undertake a study of the erstwhile trade ties of these people with the Tibet, or if one wants to appreciate the exquisite engravings on wood, this is the village.

The panoramic view of the Panchachuli peaks from Phaatab alpine pasture, Darma valley

Tedang, which is situated at the confluence of the Dhauli Ganga and the Lissar Yangtey, is one village, whose future looks bleak, for the simple reason that while the fast flowing Dhauli Ganga is gnawing away the chunks of valuable land from below, the adjoining torrent coming from the over hanging glacier, is yet another cause of concern. It is these facts, which probably had led the ancestors in declaring the forest located just above the village, as sacred forest, which no doubt protects the villages from the impending avalanches. From Tedang, it is a gradual climb towards the last village, Sipu. Across the river Lissar Yangtey, on the left bank, the village Marccha, remains a poor village, devoid of vital resources. Around seven kms through one of the very expansive forest of Birch, the remotest village in the region, Sipu seems to welcome you. Presently inhabited by just 7-8 families, Sipu is however one of the richest villages in terms of the resources, principally since it has one of the largest Van Panchayats under its fold. The religiously inclined villagers have preserved a small lake atop the village, Muldi Bai, which remains the only source of water for these people. Conservation behaviour woven around the fabric of culture or more appropriately, religion becomes discernable, more emphatic, when you are more confined to locales, where the basic necessities, like drinking water, or the fuel wood, remain item of luxury. 

The last village in the valley-The village Sipu

I cannot behold myself from telling the story, which relates to myself being made the guest of honour in a religious festivity, obviously to propitiate the local Bhumiyal, the protector of the village lands or the village itself. In the midst of the festivity I was offered the sacred drink-Chakti, which I politely refused. Next I was offered the Prasad, which was the first of its kind I mouthed (yes, deliberately). I do not want to render the details of the offering. The agony was that I was not able to gulp down the deliberate thing, which kept on swirling round in the cavity of my mouth. The difficult part was that I could not also part with it, with those expectant eyes completely focused on my face. While I was pondering over how to resolve my discomfiture, I was then offered Puris (chapattis backed in oil), which I literally snatched from the curious dispatcher, with the belief that somehow I would be able to swallow the deliberate thing along with the Puri. The agony would last; while the puris melted away in my mouth, the deliberate thing remained as such! The pretending and the smiling face of ‘the guest of honour’ was then offered the second serve. Of the deliberate thing, yes. And how could he refuge, when words simply could not pour forth!